The following is an interesting back and forth I have been having recently regarding a jade (Crassula sp.) that I am still trying to identify. Enjoy, and if anyone has suggestions of obscure black-stemmed jade species that I am not familiar with, please be in touch. Thanks. -Alex
Question:
I have a jade plant that has a black stem and the leaf is a very small half circle. I cannot find it in any of my books. It is in distress and I need to find what type it is so that I can find out how to help it. Can you please direct me in finding some sort of publication?
Answer:
I first want to clarify – does the entire plant have black stems, or just a few black stems where it seems to be distressed?
If the entire plant has black stems then it is a different species than I am used to and yes, I will have to try and identify that for you in order to best help you. If there is just one stem that has gone black then I am guessing your plant is being affected by some root rot. Various succulents, including jade (Crassula sp.), require much less water during winter when they are dormant. Jades can be allowed to go fairly dry between watering, and many references even say that you can avoid watering your jade all together through the dead of winter when the days are the shortest. If you continued to water your jade through the winter then what happened was the plant did not take up that moisture, and it sat in the soil. If you have not repotted your jade in a few years and the soil has become compacted then sometimes that too can be a proponent of too much moisture staying in your container. Either way the wet soil is of no use to the plant because it is dormant and is not taken up or used in a timely fashion. Moisture in the container for lengths of time promotes various fungi to form and spread and this leads to your blackened stems. If they are soft or mushy to the touch, then there is no question that this is root rot you are dealing with. If you can prune that stem out and remove it entirely without damaging the rest of the plant, then that is your best plan of action. Next you might consider repotting it in new soil that is properly free draining. Any cactus or succulent potting mix should suffice; certainly avoid any “moisture control” potting soil.
I hope this helps. If you have any further questions or need further clarification, just let me know. Also, we have a number of excellent houseplant reference books here at the HSNY Library, but I am not sure where you are located, and if you might be able to come in and have us show you a few things.
Reply to my answer:
Thank you for your timely response. The plant has black stems or very dark stems all the time. No, I have not re potted them in about 3 years. A bit of history: I have three different jade plants here in RI which are cuttings from ones which my father grew in Calif. for 40 years. He lived on the Monterey peninsula and the plants thrived out of doors. In the spring (Feb. - Mar.) they bloomed the most beautiful, delicate pink blossoms. I could not move the 4 ft by 4 ft here so I took cutting 6 years ago and the plants have done very well until this winter. In the summer I have been putting in my north facing garden for June to Sept. and have been pleased with the results. Now the problem is with the small leaved, black stemmed one.
Answer #2:
I am still researching your jade as I have never heard of one with such dark stems. In the meantime, while I do, I would go ahead and suggest repotting. The leaf may very well be stunted because of limited root space available to the plant. Jades can tolerate being slightly pot-bound, but that is not to say it is their favorite situation to be in. If you can feel stem or roots going right up to the edge of the container, then it is definitely worth repotting. You only have to repot your jade to a container larger by one or two inches in diameter. Like I said before, most garden centers and big retailers have a cactus and succulent potting mix available that drains well while still providing some nutrients to your plant.
Showing posts with label jade. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jade. Show all posts
Thursday, May 1, 2008
The Mysterious Black-Stemmed Jade
Keywords:
HSNY,
jade,
plant care,
Plant ID,
repot
Monday, March 3, 2008
Repotting a Jade

Question:
I found your blog on line and enjoyed reading all the Q & A’s. My question is regarding my jade plant. I bought it at the local Target store about three years ago. We have moved, and the last year, it has been loving its new home, in front of an east facing window. I try to remember to turn it, due to the branches “growing towards the sun”. It is getting a little leggy and I would like to know how to prune it to stimulate additional growth on the stalks. I have pinched of the ends before, but nothing major.
I believe it is root bound, how do you know when to repot? What type of potting medium do you suggest?
When I do get the nerve to do major pruning, if needed, what is the best way to propagate the cuttings? I have read so many different things on line: …use a leaf, …use a cutting, ….put it in water right away, …do not water for weeks, . . .let cutting air dry. . . so confused.
I believe it is root bound, how do you know when to repot? What type of potting medium do you suggest?
When I do get the nerve to do major pruning, if needed, what is the best way to propagate the cuttings? I have read so many different things on line: …use a leaf, …use a cutting, ….put it in water right away, …do not water for weeks, . . .let cutting air dry. . . so confused.
Answer:
Thanks for writing and including the photos. Your jade (Crassula argentea) does look very happy, and yes, I would definitely say it needs to be re-potted. If you find roots coming out of the bottom of the container or if the plant looks very restricted in its present pot, then it is pretty safe to say that re-potting would be a good idea. Some houseplants can enjoy being slightly pot-bound, but I wouldn’t say that jade necessarily fit into this category. As far as the re-potting, search for a container that is only 2” or 3” larger in diameter than the yellow pot it is presently in. Make sure it has proper drainage and since the plant has done so well in the yellow pot you might choose to use another glazed pot that will help retain some more moisture than terra cotta alone. As for the soil, I would use a mix that is free draining and not too moisture retentive. I think it’s Miracle-Gro that makes a Cactus & Succulent mix that I have used many times over for various plants, including jades, both here in the office and at home. It is a potting mix that has a little grit to it and is not too weighed down with organics which is good because you always want to avoid the potential for root rot. Best time to repot is late winter or early spring as the days get longer and the plants become more active, so now is the perfect time.
As for the propagating, you can try either leaf cuttings for stem cuttings. When you repot you will most likely lose a few leaves so you might as well pot them up separately or in the periphery of the new container. If you take stem cuttings, make sure you use a very sharp and sterile knife. Cut healthy looking shoots so that you have pieces that are 4” or 5” inches tall. Try to make the cut right under a node (the junction where a leaf or stem might have emerged from the stem you are cutting). Pull off any extra leaves so that you are only left with 3 leaves remaining on your cuttings. Let the cuttings sit and callus for a few days. Then, after a few days of callusing, pot the cuttings up in the free draining soil you bought for the re-potting. If you want, you can get a rooting hormone (such as Root-tone) and apply a very light dusting of it to the bottom of the cuttings before potting them up. When potting the cuttings, remember that you will want to use your finger to prepare the hole for the cutting so that the rooting hormone you have applied doesn’t get wiped right off the base of the cuttings once inserted in the soil. Make sure the soil you pot the cutting in is moist, but definitely not sopping wet. Pack the soil in around the cutting so it is held in place, and if you have to bury the cutting an inch or two down, so be it. In order for either of the cuttings to root most efficiently, you want to keep the soil slightly moist at all times and warm, about 74 or 75 degrees. It looks like that little shelf that gets hit with a lot of sun might be a perfect spot to situate your cuttings. Give them time, check every month or so to check on root development, and hopefully they will take and in time become plants of their own.
As for the propagating, you can try either leaf cuttings for stem cuttings. When you repot you will most likely lose a few leaves so you might as well pot them up separately or in the periphery of the new container. If you take stem cuttings, make sure you use a very sharp and sterile knife. Cut healthy looking shoots so that you have pieces that are 4” or 5” inches tall. Try to make the cut right under a node (the junction where a leaf or stem might have emerged from the stem you are cutting). Pull off any extra leaves so that you are only left with 3 leaves remaining on your cuttings. Let the cuttings sit and callus for a few days. Then, after a few days of callusing, pot the cuttings up in the free draining soil you bought for the re-potting. If you want, you can get a rooting hormone (such as Root-tone) and apply a very light dusting of it to the bottom of the cuttings before potting them up. When potting the cuttings, remember that you will want to use your finger to prepare the hole for the cutting so that the rooting hormone you have applied doesn’t get wiped right off the base of the cuttings once inserted in the soil. Make sure the soil you pot the cutting in is moist, but definitely not sopping wet. Pack the soil in around the cutting so it is held in place, and if you have to bury the cutting an inch or two down, so be it. In order for either of the cuttings to root most efficiently, you want to keep the soil slightly moist at all times and warm, about 74 or 75 degrees. It looks like that little shelf that gets hit with a lot of sun might be a perfect spot to situate your cuttings. Give them time, check every month or so to check on root development, and hopefully they will take and in time become plants of their own.
Keywords:
HSNY,
jade,
plant care,
propagation
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Jade Pruning in Indiana
Question:I visited your site - http://hsny.blogspot.com/2007/03/jade-plant-on-long-island-ny.html - and was fascinated with the picture of the jade plant. I posted a picture of mine that we repotted this afternoon on my blog and linked to your site so that my readers could see what a beauty you are showcasing. Has this one been pruned a lot to achieve the shape? I am terrified of cutting on mine, even though it is really healthy, I'm thinking it could use some shaping. Are there any tips on how to prune, or do you just start cutting?
Answer:
Your jade is gorgeous; thank you for sharing the picture and link to your blog.As for that other fabulous photograph that was sent to me, the one on my blog that you referred to, I must be honest and say that I am not sure how much it has been pruned. It seems to me that that specimen receives enough light and therefore I guess that it has gone minimal pruning.
Most reference books on houseplants and succulents will tell you that jade (Crassula arborescens) do not require any pruning. As for your jade, I think it looks wonderful, but I understand if you would like to do a little pruning. One thing that you want to keep in mind which you already know is that jades are slow growing. In addition, because it is an older plant you want to prune as little as possible to achieve the look you are going for. The older a plant gets the more difficult it can be for the plant to recuperate after a heavy pruning. Pruning does redirect the flow of energy and carbohydrates within a plant to promote new growth, but with such a slow grower it may take a while before you see a lot of that new growth emerge. In general I might suggest waiting until this spring before beginning pruning your plant. Once the days are longer and there is more light in the sky the jade will be more active and resilient in the face of some pruning.
Regarding the cuts themselves, think about is the size of the cuts you will be making. Ideally you want to cut smaller stems and try to avoid making large exposed cuts so that the plant can callus those wounds as quickly and easily as possible. A few small cuts the plant will callus quickly and efficiently. Large cuts can take a longer time to callus, possibly allowing pests or diseases to penetrate the open wound. If you want to cut back some stems, cut them back to the lateral branch that they emerged from. You will most likely not get new growth from where you have cut, but new growth will emerge from the tip of the larger, remaining branch. If some branches have gotten long and leggy, you can cut them back a little, but be sure that there are some leaves remaining on the stem that can continue to photosynthesize. What you really want to avoid is leaving any large exposed stubs of branches that have no foliage. They will most likely just die back to the lateral branch that they emerged from, and again can be an entryway for pests and diseases.
It is very difficult to describe proper pruning cuts in writing, so if this is completely confusing, don’t hesitate to give me a ring in the office and we can chat about your jade in greater detail.
Keywords:
HSNY,
jade,
plant care
Tuesday, March 20, 2007
Jade Plant on Long Island, NY
Question:
I’m thrilled though to have learned that you will answer queries on plants as I have been trying to discern the state of my jade plant. It is of uncertain age, but I can tell you it was in an 8” pot and perhaps 8” high and not quite as round when I received it about 5 years ago. It had a quiet life in a city apartment then. In my sunny winter windows on the north shore of Long Island, it has been transplanted a number of times. It is currently in a pot measuring 12” high by 16” wide and the plant is about 18” high and almost 36” in diameter now!
I’ve attached a photo for reference.
It’s gotten too heavy to move outside in summer as of this year and was most recently repotted in the summer/fall of 2005. My question is do I need to repot it again? The soil is very hard, so I am tempted to water more, but I refrain. I get a small number of shriveled yellow leaves thru the winter but nothing alarming. I know that jades don’t want a lot of fertilizer, water or anything except sun, but I am suddenly in the care of a giant! I want to feed eat properly!
How long do they live? I’ve been taking a few cuttings but should I be cutting this plant back or thinning it? It has a wonderful symmetrical roundness now.
Also, I’ve seen the jades in the Camellia house at Planting Fields Arboretum flower in winter. Mine never has, and theirs appear ancient, not as full as mine, but almost 5 feet tall…what makes them flower?
I’ve attached a photo for reference.
It’s gotten too heavy to move outside in summer as of this year and was most recently repotted in the summer/fall of 2005. My question is do I need to repot it again? The soil is very hard, so I am tempted to water more, but I refrain. I get a small number of shriveled yellow leaves thru the winter but nothing alarming. I know that jades don’t want a lot of fertilizer, water or anything except sun, but I am suddenly in the care of a giant! I want to feed eat properly!
How long do they live? I’ve been taking a few cuttings but should I be cutting this plant back or thinning it? It has a wonderful symmetrical roundness now.
Also, I’ve seen the jades in the Camellia house at Planting Fields Arboretum flower in winter. Mine never has, and theirs appear ancient, not as full as mine, but almost 5 feet tall…what makes them flower?
Answer:
And what a magnificent plant it is – I loved the picture! That is a certainly a beautiful specimen. To answer your first question, the plant will eventually need to be repotted, but I don’t think that is something that you are going to have to worry about for a few years, especially if you did it in 2005. It’s roots will continue to grow outward and downward, but at a slower rate. I do not see any need to prune it at all – it does have a fabulous shape. I have certainly seen plenty of jades perfectly content in almost pot-bound conditions, and continue to do fine for years. Otherwise you are certainly taking proper care of the plant. Never happy to be completely soaked, you can water a little more freely during the active growing season, (the summer months), but as you know already little to no water through winter.
As for how long they can live? They can go for a very, very long time. Growing up (I grew up out on the south fork of the island) I had a neighbor who had the largest, most unbelievable jade plants you can imagine. Honestly, she had four or five plants and they took up her entire sun room. Mrs. Fantini said that the plants were as old as she was, so that made them at least 90 years old! Granted as they get older they will not grow so aggressively, but you should expect to enjoy it for many more years.
Regarding getting them to flower, that is a question that I must admit I don’t have such a quick response to. The ones that I have seen flower have only been at aged conservatories where they have been settled and properly taken care of for years. I was recently up at the New York Botanical Garden and theirs was just beginning to bloom. There are ways of tricking various succulents into blooming, such as shocking them by putting them in total darkness, or dropping and raising the temperature of where they are growing, but I am very skeptical to suggest any of those for fear that the plant might get too shocked and go into decline. And it is certainly too amazing a plant, and too old a plant, to get experimental at this stage – at least that’s my opinion. I suppose regarding the flowers, all we can do is hope that as it gets more comfortable in its new home and pot it will eventually flower on it’s own.
As for how long they can live? They can go for a very, very long time. Growing up (I grew up out on the south fork of the island) I had a neighbor who had the largest, most unbelievable jade plants you can imagine. Honestly, she had four or five plants and they took up her entire sun room. Mrs. Fantini said that the plants were as old as she was, so that made them at least 90 years old! Granted as they get older they will not grow so aggressively, but you should expect to enjoy it for many more years.
Regarding getting them to flower, that is a question that I must admit I don’t have such a quick response to. The ones that I have seen flower have only been at aged conservatories where they have been settled and properly taken care of for years. I was recently up at the New York Botanical Garden and theirs was just beginning to bloom. There are ways of tricking various succulents into blooming, such as shocking them by putting them in total darkness, or dropping and raising the temperature of where they are growing, but I am very skeptical to suggest any of those for fear that the plant might get too shocked and go into decline. And it is certainly too amazing a plant, and too old a plant, to get experimental at this stage – at least that’s my opinion. I suppose regarding the flowers, all we can do is hope that as it gets more comfortable in its new home and pot it will eventually flower on it’s own.
Keywords:
HSNY,
indoor plants,
jade,
plant care
Training a Jade Plant
Question:
I have an indoor Jade Plant with three branches - each about 12 - 18 inches long. I middle branch is growing straight up but the 2 on either side are growing in an inverted U. Is there a way to get them to grow straight up?
Answer:
To be perfectly honest, that sounds like a very comical looking plant. I personally have grown a few jades and the shapes that they take over time can be pretty unique. As far as how to train the two bent branches, my first thought is bonsai supports. Bonsai growers use a number of different metal structures and wire (from the most basic to the most complex) to carefully train their plants into the desired shape. Of the ones I have seen, you drive the base into the edges of the container or brace it to the bottom of the jade plant, and use the supports and wires to tie the plant stems in the desired direction. The one catch is that these structures, even though they help you train the plant the way you want it, they can be big and perhaps not what you want aesthetically. Now, if these two branches in question are very thick and mature, you might not be able to bend or train them very well at this point, but you could certainly try with new growth that emerges. Off the top of my head I am not familiar with bonsai stores or websites, but I am sure there are more than enough out there.
I have an indoor Jade Plant with three branches - each about 12 - 18 inches long. I middle branch is growing straight up but the 2 on either side are growing in an inverted U. Is there a way to get them to grow straight up?
Answer:
To be perfectly honest, that sounds like a very comical looking plant. I personally have grown a few jades and the shapes that they take over time can be pretty unique. As far as how to train the two bent branches, my first thought is bonsai supports. Bonsai growers use a number of different metal structures and wire (from the most basic to the most complex) to carefully train their plants into the desired shape. Of the ones I have seen, you drive the base into the edges of the container or brace it to the bottom of the jade plant, and use the supports and wires to tie the plant stems in the desired direction. The one catch is that these structures, even though they help you train the plant the way you want it, they can be big and perhaps not what you want aesthetically. Now, if these two branches in question are very thick and mature, you might not be able to bend or train them very well at this point, but you could certainly try with new growth that emerges. Off the top of my head I am not familiar with bonsai stores or websites, but I am sure there are more than enough out there.
Keywords:
HSNY,
indoor plants,
jade,
New York,
plant care
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