Showing posts with label Plant ID. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Plant ID. Show all posts

Monday, April 6, 2009

Exotic Plant?


Dear George,
I came across your site whilst searching for some information about this plant (I hope you can open the attachment). I can't find a similar picture on the internet, and the lady who sold it to me (in a rather upmarket shop in town) yesterday didn't know the exact name (but muttered it could be from a family beginning with Ga...?). I gave it as a present to our local priest today, who really appreciated it and said it's going in their Easter garden, but I would like to let him know what it is..

I was told it doesn't like direct sunlight, only partial shade, but no tips as to watering / feeding. Because the leaves are cactus-like I would assume it doesn't want too much water. A lady I bumped into at the supermarket, after asking me where I got it from, suggested it might like to draw its own (lukewarm) water from a saucer.

I don't know anything about plants, and I've never come across this particular specimen during my travels. Could it be from Thailand? And, most importantly, is it safe to have around?

Any help would be really appreciated.

Thank you for your time and best wishes

Alessia, London (UK)



Alessia,

Greetings from across the pond.....

What you have is a Bromeliad, the botanical name is Aechmea ‘Blue tango’. This is a man-made cultivar, which means it doesn’t exist in nature.
Here is some culture on these plants…..

Their native soil is Middle and South America. They thrive in the lowlands of the tropical forests and even in some higher regions (up to 4000 m) of Sierra Madre and the Andes.

They thrive in different climate zones: tropical and monsoon climate of the rainforests, subtropical savannah climate with dry period either during summer or winter, subtropical steppe climate and subtropical highland savannah climate.

It is important to know the climate zone of origin of certain bromeliad, as you will be able to offer your plant convenient conditions.

Bromeliads are epiphytes. They do not drain the host tree, they are simply attached to the rough bark of the trunk or branches. They grow high in the tree crowns to bath in the shaded light. Some thrive even on the ground. They gather rainwater with all necessary nutrients in their specially shaped leaf rosettes. Some sorts that thrive in wet regions regulate the quantity of water with special sucking scales on the rosette leaves that open or close according to the needs. Sorts from the dry regions do not have distinctive rosettes, instead their surface is covered in scales that prevent vaporization.

Bromeliads flower only once in a lifetime. After the flowering the parent plant slowly dies, but new sprouts that appear around it continue the life.. We can transplant these sprouts in their own flowerpots filled with special soil mixture for bromeliaed. Bromeliads should flower in 2-3 years provided with appropriate temperature, humidity and enough light. We recommend buying the plant that is close to its flowering period.*

I hope this helps you and enjoy your lovely bromeliad.

*tri.exotica

Monday, August 25, 2008

Plant ID: Amaranthus tricolor

Question:
PLEASE TELL ME WHAT THIS FLOWER OR WEED IS, ITS BEAUTIFUL.

Answer:
Chances are the plant you have photographed is neither a flower or a weed. What you have there in that photograph is actually a tropical plant that someone decided to grow as a large annual in their garden for the summer. I will admit that at first I was stumped, but luckily I have a good friend and mentor who happens to be a curator at the New York Botanical Garden so he was able to enlighten both of us.

Amaranthus tricolor, commonly called summer poinsettia, is a plant indigenous to Africa and Asia loved for its ornamental value and colorful foliage. Another common name is Chinese spinach, and rightfully so as it is grown as a leaf vegetable in some locations. Because it is hardy in USDA Zones 9-11 we would consider it a tropical plant up here in New York and only be able to grow it as an annual outdoors. There is one cultivar named ‘Joseph’s Coat’ which has a striking combination of yellow and red atop its otherwise green leaves. Thanks again to Marc we are guessing you spotted a specific cultivar named ‘Illumination’ which has those bright red leaves above the olive/red variegated leaves at its base and reaches about 42” tall. From what I understand they used to be planted more often as annuals in the garden but you do not see them in cultivation much any more.

Thanks for writing. I always love learning about new plants!

Thursday, July 31, 2008

Plant ID: Epipactis sp.

Question:
Are there orchids that are native to growing in NY? I live in Buffalo and every summer have something growing in my yard that looks like an orchid. I will enclose a picture so maybe you can identify it.

Answer:
Actually there are a number of different kinds of terrestrial (meaning they grow in the ground) orchids that grow and can survive the winter here in the northeast. The orchid family, Orchidaceae, is one of the largest families, if not the largest, of flowering plants (also called angiosperms) in the world and they can be found on most continents. Some are native to North America while others have been introduced and then naturalized themselves in the landscape.

The plant you are trying to identify is in the genus Epipactis, and may very well be Epipactis helleborine, commonly called a broadleaf helleborine. I am always hesitant to swear 100% certainty as proper botanical identification can be much more of an involved process, but I am confident that we have your plant appropriately identified to genus. Helleborines are native to Europe and Asia but were introduced to the U.S. so long ago that these days they can be found in wooded areas and landscapes from Kentucky to Quebec and as far west as California and Oregon. Fabulous picture by the way – thanks for sharing!

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Plant ID: rushes


Question:
We have a rather unusual plant (looks like bamboo?) that has grown rapidly this year. Attached is a photo. Could you please tells us if it is bamboo and should we keep it or get rid of them. I was told that they could cause many problems in an urban environment due to their very invasive root system.

Answer:
The plant you are trying to identify is a type of rush. There are many different genus out there, most of which belong to different plant families, but the cylindrical habit of the plant with those colorful bands are quite distinguishable. There is Equisetum, which is called scouring-rush, a member of the family Equisetaceae. It got its name because early American pioneers used to gather and tie them together in order to use them as scrub brushes to clean their pots and pans. Juncus is another genus, I believe a member of the Juncaceae family, and the well known variety of that genus has more of a corkscrew appearance. If I were to guess what you have in your yard I might guess it to be a striped club rush, botanically known as Schoenoplectus tabernaemontani 'Zebrinus'. However, I must admit I am not 100% certain having only seen only one image of the plant.

Either way the cultural habit of rushes is pretty much the same across the boards. They are clump forming perennials that spread predominantly by underground rhizome. They do best in full sun in a wet environment, and yes, they can spread quite rapidly once established in the landscape. Honestly, whether to keep it or to try and pull it and remove it from your garden is totally up to you. In my backyard they are welcome as a filler in some wet areas; for a client in Brooklyn I pull them every time I visit because they drive her crazy. Because it is such an aggressive grower it can become a weed, defined simply as a plant in the wrong place, even though some species are actually native to North America. If you are worried about other plants being choked out then yes, I would try and pull it and remember to remove as many of the underground stems as possible.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Can You Please ID This Flower?

Question:
Could you please tell me the name of the white berry-like foliage used in this arrangement?

Answer:
I believe the flower and foliage you are trying to identify is a plant called either Japanese pieris or Japanese andromeda. The botanical name is Pieris japonica.

It’s a broadleaf evergreen shrub that sets those long panicles of bell-shaped flowers in late winter to early spring. In nature they can be quite fragrant but I am not sure how long the fragrance holds up in arrangements. I did post a few pictures of one such Pieris japonica on the HSNY blog last spring when it was in bloom in Central Park. That might help to confirm further. Here is the link to that entry, (they are the last images on the post):
http://hsny.blogspot.com/2007/04/in-bloom-this-week.html

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

In Bloom This Week at HSNY

In our Green Screen here at HSNY we get to have a lot of fun growing a wide array of plants. Among them we have a number of epiphytic species, including these Tillandsia, or air plants as they are commonly called. They are situated in a trough of moisture retentive gravel and get watered and misted a couple times a week this time of year. After a day in the field working at a Green Branches Learning Garden in Brooklyn yesterday I came in this morning to find these showy pink blossoms emerging from the rigid green leaves. Well, technically speaking the pink portions are showy bracts and the flowers will actually be smaller and emerge from the tiny purple buds you see. But either way, a great little show.
If you are in the neighborhood come in and visit to see these spectacular plants. The blooms will not last too terribly long as the office is considerably more dry compared to the humid locales of Central America where the genus is naturally indigenous.
The HSNY Green Screen was designed by Marpillero Pollak Architects, installed by David Melrose, and is maintained by those of us here at The Horticultural Society of New York. It is a living work in progress, and along with the HSNY library and exhibitions gallery, is open to the pulbic Monday through Friday from 10am to 6pm.

Hope to see you soon.

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Recent Photos: HSNY Green Screen

Here at The Horticultural Society of New York (148 W. 37th Street - 13th Floor) our Green Screen is looking really good these days so I wanted to post and share some images for those of you that have not had the chance to visit recently. Designed by Marpillero Pollak Architects, installed by David Melrose, and maintained by yours truly, the HSNY Green Screen includes plants of all shapes and sizes situated in a series of shallow troughs covering most of our south-facing windows. A mixture of herbaceous tropicals, succulents, bromeliads, epiphytes, ferns and vines, the Screen has become a great living experiment right here in our public headquarters and I urge anyone and everyone to come and visit. Above is a Tillandsia concolor, commonly call an air plant, and with all the sun and humidity recently it has begun blooming profusely.

The staghorn fern (Platycerium bifurcatum) in the background and the crocodile fern (Microsorium 'Crocodyllus') in the foreground require regular misting but have held up very well since I planted them a year ago. If you have ever tried to grow a staghorn fern in your home you know how challenging it can be so I love showing people how we have been able to keep it going here in an office environment.

One of our newest additions is this amazing plant with contrasting hairy, reddish stems and bright chartreuse terminal growth. It appears that the flowers are pure white, tiny and emerge from the chartreuse bracts of the plant, but we are still learning as it continues to come into flower. I have yet to identify it to genus and/or species.


In the center of this shot, in front of the thin, tubular Euphorbia tirucalli 'Sticks on Fire' and behind the Hedera 'Round Leaf' is Neoregelia 'Tiger Cub', a staff favorite which we have a number of throughout the Screen. With plenty of sun and enough moisture kept in their cups the Tiger Cub neoregelia continues to put out its pups (new growth in the form of side shoots) even when the office gets very dry.

You can see some things are containerized within the screen like the Peperomia maypurensis with its thick bronze leaves. You can't see it in this photo but the creeping fig (Ficus pumila) in the foreground has begun clinging and climbing up the nearby windowsill. Again, we enjoy the screen as a horticultural experiment and love to see how the plants grow and spread by their own accord.

With its cylindrical creeping leaves, the Sansevieria ballyi has been a Green Screen staple from its installation in 2006. Beyond it Sedum 'Angelina' has adapted well to the indoors here at HSNY even though most people know it as a reliable and winter-hardy green roof plant in New York City. Overall the succulents, such as the Sedum, love the Screen because they do most of their water and nutrient storage in their leaf tissue and therefore do not need tons of space for their roots. Beyond those the large leafed plants in the distance are a combination of Begonia conchifolia 'Bulls Eye' and Syngonium podophyllum 'Roxana', commonly called Bulls Eye begonia and Roxana arrowhead vine respectively.


Over the winter the rex begonia vine, Cissus discolor, died back and I wasn't sure if it would come back again. However, I pruned it back hard, continued to water minimally through winter, and did my best to be patient. To all of our surprise, not to mention the surprise of the amazing growers out at Landcraft Environmentals who raised most of these plants, spring came and the vine has bounced back tremendously. I do think they would prefer a home with greater humidity but a regular early morning misting is keeping them colorful and cascading all over.


The containerized plant in the foreground is Homalocladium platycladum, commonly called a ribbon plant. Some times you will also find it referred to by its other, less attractive name of tapeworm plant. It too prefers quite a bit of humidity given the thin "ribbon" leaves and stems but when happy they grow quite big. Beyond it the Echeveria 'Milk Chocolate' put up a large spire of flowers last year and I can't wait for it to bloom again. When you visit you will see how we have easily propagated broken-off succulent leaves and allowed them to grow into plants of their own.


Under two pieces of the Screen are large radiators so we improvised and filled those sections with moisture retentive gravel and containerized succulents and epiphytes. In the winter its just a matter of keep the gravel moist on a regular basis and the result is a nice dose of humidity that rises up and helps all of the other layers deal with the dry heat.


HSNY is open to the public Monday - Friday from 10am - 6pm. With a mission to improve the quality of life through horticulture, HSNY is a horticultural resource and community outreach provider intended for all, and we love to help foster growth and education every chance we get. Usually Katherine Powis, HSNY Librarian, and I are here, but if not there is signage and other staff to help you identify what you are looking at. There is also the living example of an extensive green roof (below) and plenty of sensational reference books to keep you enthralled so do come and visit us soon.



Reminder: All photographs taken by Alex Feleppa and should not be used or reproduced in any form without written consent. Thank you. -AEF

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Yarrow in Manhattan?


(Achillea Millefolium 'Moonshine' found outside of a public school in the East Village last July, photo: Alex Feleppa)

Question:
Can a yarrow plant grow inside? Where in Manhattan can I purchase a yarrow plant?

Answer:
I do not think that you could successfully grow yarrow indoors. Yarrow, Achillea millefolium and its many hybrids, is a winter hardy perennial here in the northeast and without a winter chill to allow the plant to go dormant I do not think it would survive. Or, I should say, it might live indoors, but is certainly not going to be as happy as those you see in outdoor gardens around the city. As far as where to find yarrow in Manhattan, I might first check at the Farmer’s Market in Union Square. The Market is open Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, and it is best to get there early in the day. Recently I have noticed greater amounts and selections of perennials for sale and a coworker mentioned that he saw yarrow plants for sale not too long ago. If you strike out there, then I would visit Chelsea Garden Center or Dimitri’s. Chelsea Garden Center is on 11th Avenue at 44th Street and Dimitri’s has moved to 2413 Third Avenue in the Bronx. They also have websites if you would prefer to go that route and call before visiting. Of course there is the Flower District on 28th Street but it can be a challenge finding perennials some times. I tend to go there more for houseplants, tropicals, annuals, or the occasional woody plant. As a final thought, I wonder if the garden sections at Home Depot might have anything. Out near my home in Astoria, Queens, I bought a bunch of great looking yarrow last week for cheap, but perhaps that is just the case at Home Depots in the outer-boroughs. Needless to say it is better to buy locally from a grower at the Farmer’s Market or one of the garden centers, but I want to present you will all the options that come to mind.

Thursday, May 8, 2008

Echinacea purpurea and related cultivars

I was digging through my photos trying to help my coworker put together the graphics for our latest mailer at work and I rediscovered these great shots of Echinacea from Garden in the Woods and Nasami Farm, both operated by The New England Wild Flower Society. Thought I would share them for a nice little visual on this gray Thursday. Above is the straight species Echinacea purpurea, commonly called purple cone flower. Echinacea is a native perennial plant here in the northeast, hardy in USDA Zones 3-9, and can grow to 4-5' tall and 18-20" wide. It flowers mid-summer and the blossoms can often last well into September or early October. It does best in full sun, and once established is marginally drought tolerant. A rich soil heavy in organics will produce the most robust plants, but I have seen them adapt to less ideal conditions as well.
Then there are a lot of great new cultivars that growers are developing. Many still need to be tested for years to make sure they hold up as well as the original, in terms of size, durability, winter hardiness, etc. Above is an Echinacea called 'Sunrise' and below a beautiful reddish orange 'Sundown'.
If you are a member and/or are on the HSNY mailing list then you should have received the latest programming mailer, the graphic of which was derived from the photograph above. If you are not a member, please visit the HSNY website and sign up as an HSNY member today!

Thursday, May 1, 2008

The Mysterious Black-Stemmed Jade

The following is an interesting back and forth I have been having recently regarding a jade (Crassula sp.) that I am still trying to identify. Enjoy, and if anyone has suggestions of obscure black-stemmed jade species that I am not familiar with, please be in touch. Thanks. -Alex

Question:
I have a jade plant that has a black stem and the leaf is a very small half circle. I cannot find it in any of my books. It is in distress and I need to find what type it is so that I can find out how to help it. Can you please direct me in finding some sort of publication?

Answer:
I first want to clarify – does the entire plant have black stems, or just a few black stems where it seems to be distressed?

If the entire plant has black stems then it is a different species than I am used to and yes, I will have to try and identify that for you in order to best help you. If there is just one stem that has gone black then I am guessing your plant is being affected by some root rot. Various succulents, including jade (Crassula sp.), require much less water during winter when they are dormant. Jades can be allowed to go fairly dry between watering, and many references even say that you can avoid watering your jade all together through the dead of winter when the days are the shortest. If you continued to water your jade through the winter then what happened was the plant did not take up that moisture, and it sat in the soil. If you have not repotted your jade in a few years and the soil has become compacted then sometimes that too can be a proponent of too much moisture staying in your container. Either way the wet soil is of no use to the plant because it is dormant and is not taken up or used in a timely fashion. Moisture in the container for lengths of time promotes various fungi to form and spread and this leads to your blackened stems. If they are soft or mushy to the touch, then there is no question that this is root rot you are dealing with. If you can prune that stem out and remove it entirely without damaging the rest of the plant, then that is your best plan of action. Next you might consider repotting it in new soil that is properly free draining. Any cactus or succulent potting mix should suffice; certainly avoid any “moisture control” potting soil.

I hope this helps. If you have any further questions or need further clarification, just let me know. Also, we have a number of excellent houseplant reference books here at the HSNY Library, but I am not sure where you are located, and if you might be able to come in and have us show you a few things.

Reply to my answer:
Thank you for your timely response. The plant has black stems or very dark stems all the time. No, I have not re potted them in about 3 years. A bit of history: I have three different jade plants here in RI which are cuttings from ones which my father grew in Calif. for 40 years. He lived on the Monterey peninsula and the plants thrived out of doors. In the spring (Feb. - Mar.) they bloomed the most beautiful, delicate pink blossoms. I could not move the 4 ft by 4 ft here so I took cutting 6 years ago and the plants have done very well until this winter. In the summer I have been putting in my north facing garden for June to Sept. and have been pleased with the results. Now the problem is with the small leaved, black stemmed one.

Answer #2:
I am still researching your jade as I have never heard of one with such dark stems. In the meantime, while I do, I would go ahead and suggest repotting. The leaf may very well be stunted because of limited root space available to the plant. Jades can tolerate being slightly pot-bound, but that is not to say it is their favorite situation to be in. If you can feel stem or roots going right up to the edge of the container, then it is definitely worth repotting. You only have to repot your jade to a container larger by one or two inches in diameter. Like I said before, most garden centers and big retailers have a cactus and succulent potting mix available that drains well while still providing some nutrients to your plant.

Monday, April 7, 2008

Question Regarding the HSNY Green Screen

(Ficus pumila, commonly called creeping fig is one of the many plants we have growing here at HSNY. Photo credit: Alex Feleppa)

Question:
I found the blog recently - and LOVE the window display I see in the photos of the HSNY office.
I wonder, what is the plant I've circled in the enclosed image? And how was this window system constructed? I feel like vertical space isn't used often enough, and this seems like a great way to do it.

Answer:
Thanks for writing; that is a great question.

The plant you have circled in the images you sent is Ficus pumila, or creeping fig. As you can see in the photograph creeping fig has small heart-shaped leaves that can cling and climb quite easily on most vertical surfaces. Native to the warmer parts of China and Japan, these small evergreen plants are only hardy in USDA Zones 9-11 and therefore we utilize them best as houseplants. I have found from maintaining the "Green Screen" here at HSNY that these plants do benefit from regular watering and misting, especially through the dryer winter months.

The entire HSNY headquarters here on West 37th Street, including the offices, art exhibition space, library, and Green Screen, was designed by Marpillero Pollak Architects. If you have not been, I highly recommend you stop by HSNY and see our space in person. We are always happy to have visitors and are open Monday through Friday from 10am to 6pm. The installation of the Green Screen components was done by David Melrose, an artist and builder based in Brooklyn. The troughs that the plants are situated in are affixed to the walls via those darker vertical brackets, all made of metal. The troughs do not have drainage holes so we incorporated a layer of gravel beneath the different soil mixes and used predominantly smaller plants and succulents that require less space for their roots. Some plants require more regular watering and misting than others, but by and large the screen has been doing very well since it was originally installed in 2006.

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Manhattan Terrace Vines

Question:
I'm a first-time gardener. I need an advice on perennial (flowering) vines for the terrace. Privacy is a priority, but beauty and fragrance are almost as important. I love morning glory but was told it's annual. Any advice will be much appreciated.
Also, what's the prevailing opinion for the jasmine on the terrace?

Answer:
Let me ask you a few questions so that I can best help you.
What direction does your terrace face and how is the sunlight throughout the day? Do you have strong winds or salt spray exposure?

To begin, morning glories are annuals, and even though they can fill in a small fence or railing quickly in one season they are not expected to come back. As far as jasmines, they too are mostly annuals, at least the climbing species that you are most likely referring to. I once wrote a quick document of some of the most popular vines here in the city, and they are the following:

Clematis sp. - clematis - climbing vine to 10’
Sun to part shade; moist organic soil; vine does best with sunny stems and protected, cool roots; known for vast color variation to cultivars; Clematis montana grows tall with small white flowers mid-summer; Clematis x jackmanii popular for large violet flowers; Clematis tangutica has yellow flowers and fluffy seed heads; plant clematis on a North, East or West exposure on a narrow-spaced trellis system

Hydrangea anomala var. petiolaris - climbing hydrangea - climbing vine to 50’
Full sun to part shade; dry soil; good on north or east exposure; wind and salt spray tolerant; white flower clusters mid-summer; woody cinnamon bark when mature; grows by aerial roots, best planted up cable system off separate from building exterior

Lonicera sempervirens - scarlet honeysuckle - twining vine to 12’
Sun to part shade; moist organic soil; plant on a South, East, or West exposure; must be trained at first then climbs well on its own; scarlet flowers followed by small red berries; gray-green leaves; exfoliating bark at maturity; North American native

Akebia quinata - chocolate vine - climbing vine to 30’
Sun to shade; dry organic soil; spicy vanilla scented pinkish-purple flowers in spring; nice rounded leaf is palmately compound;

Parthenocissus quinquefolia - Virginia creeper - climbing vine to 50’+
Part shade to shade; moist soil; excellent red fall color; very aggressive grower, requires maintenance; grows by adhesive sucker, train up trellis system; North, South, or East exposure

Parthenocissus tricuspidata - Boston ivy - spreading vine to 70’
Part shade; moist organic soil; glossy foliage; good fall color when planted in some sun; very aggressive grower, best trained up a trellis system; will perform well on a North, South, or East exposure

Schizophragma hydrangeoides - Japanese hydrangea vine - climbing vine to 40’
Sun to part shade; dry organic soil; fragrant midsummer flowers

Pyracantha sp. - firethorn - woody vine to 15’
Tolerant of most soils and exposures; clusters of white summer flowers followed by fruit-set in fall; P. atalantioides has red fruit; P. coccinea has orange fruit

Lastly there is Campsis radicans, or trumpet creeper, and I discussed that in a blog spot from last summer that you can revisit here.

Please note that vines such as Virginia creeper and Boston ivy I listed as aggressive growers which need to be trained up some sort of system that stands off of the building exterior. These vines have such adhesive suckers that they really should not be planted right up against a building because they will cause serious damage to the façade over extended periods of time.
Also, you should be aware of the HSNY Library here on West 37th Street. Open to the public and well over 10,000 volumes we have plenty of information to share with you when you feel like educating yourself further. You can find more information about the HSNY Library by clicking here.

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Mirliton in Southern Colorado?

(A photo of mirliton, or chayote squash, which I found on the internet while researching)

Question:
I live in CO and have a wonderful organic veggie garden... some friends from Nepal have asked me to grown some mirliton for them... being unfamiliar with its cultivation, I did some on-line research and came across an article from 8/11/05 (Scott Appell was your Director of Education then and author of the article)... do you know if this plant can grow in SW CO? Do you know where I can get “starts”? Thank you in advance for your assistance... There’s so much snow here today it’s difficult to think about gardening... or maybe not...
Answer:
Chayote squash or mirliton is botanically known as Sechium edule. The plant itself is a tuberous-rooted climber native to Central America. Supposedly you can tell the male and female flowers apart because the male flowers are pale yellow while the female flowers are more greenish. They do lead to an edible fruit, but I am sorry to say I do not think they would grow in southern Colorado. I must admit that I am not sure how long the plants take to flower and set fruit, but I know the plant would not be able to winter-over like other perennials you might have. If I am correct then southern Colorado is in Zone 4, 5, or 6 according to the USDA hardiness zone map and the plant you are hoping to grow is used to Zones 9-12. This means the plant naturally grows as far south as border country, and even into Mexico. Again, you might be able to treat it like an annual and have it last just one growing season outside, but in the winter you would have to bring plants inside or experiment with propagation by seed or cuttings.

As to where to find seeds or started plants, I’m going to have to ask HSNY Librarian, Katherine Powis, if she has any ideas. I can't think of any sources off the top of my head that offer this climbing plant.

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Reminder: HSNY Consultation Service

The Horticultural Society of New York enhances our City's environmental and cultural life by providing unique educational, vocational, and therapeutic outreach programs, library resources, and art exhibitions.

Every week I field quite a spread of horticultural emails and phone calls that come in to HSNY. Just this day alone I have received questions about citrus and where to find them, some houseplant concerns from the Upper West Side, not to mention I'm still talking turf grass with my newfound friend in Brooklyn. Most of the time I have an answer, or can come up with one by the end of our conversation, but sometimes it's simply not that easy.
That is why, as part of our being a horticultural resource city-wide, I wanted to remind the general public that HSNY does offer private consultation services. As a trained horticulturist, and aided by our unique and vast horticultural HSNY Library, I can come to your home or place of work and we can discuss any number of horticultural questions you might be seeking answers to. I have consulted on everything from small interiors in Manhattan to large backyards in Brooklyn. Equipped with a clipboard, bag of basic tools, and perhaps even a reference book or two, we can discuss your wants and needs, your fears and desires, and how to best move forward. There was a wonderful article in the Times some months ago about "Garden Coaches" and I suppose that's exactly what I am. My love and mission is to make this a greener and healthier city. By educating, empowering, and motivating people throughout this entire city to beautify their worlds, we as a cooperative whole make this city and our lives better. It's that simple, and time is of the essence.
If you have the need for a trained horticulturist to educate or empower you on a specific project or area you would like to renovate, remember that you can always call on HSNY. Consultations are available throughout the five boroughs. I can speak with you about rates, HSNY Member discounts, as well as availability. Don't hesitate to call or email today. Contact Alex Feleppa, Director of Horticulture, The Horticultural Society of New York, (212) 757-0915 ext.115 or afeleppa@hsny.org

Friday, January 25, 2008

Help with Drooping Houseplants

Question:
All my corn plants look like Quasimodo! How do I straighten them out?

Answer:
Actually, they might not be corn plants. There is another one that looks very similar which is called a spineless yucca (Yucca elephantipes). Whereas corn plants and other kinds of Dracaena can deal with low light, spineless yucca benefit from bright light with plenty of direct sun. I am going to guess that the reason they have all flopped over is because of water, either an extreme of having too much or having too little. The soil should be kept moist throughout the summer and allowed to only dry out only a little in winter. The one thing, unfortunately, that growers and florists don’t always tell you is that inconsistent watering can lead to these plants drooping pretty seriously pretty quickly. I had one client once who was so attached to hers, as it was her only outdoor plant that survived 9/11, and it devastated me to have to tell her that she needed to start over because the plant had flopped to such a point that I knew it would not stand up on it’s own again. For your situation, apply small quantities of water with regularity; let’s say once a week. Some folks I have talked to also mist their yucca, but that is often more necessary in the summer during warmer weather. Try and find something like a bamboo stake or two and some twine so that you can stake up the flopped portions of your plants. If staking is a new or intimidating endeavor, let me know and I will advise you further.

Plant ID: Begonia sp.

Question:
Can you please name this plant? And tell me how to best care for it? Thanks.

Answer:
The plant in the photographs you have sent is a definitely a kind of begonia. If I had to guess more specifically than that, I might guess that it is a certain cultivar called a ‘Corallina de Lucerna’. There are thousands of different kinds of begonias out there and each one will have one of three different kinds of root systems: fibrous, rhizomatous, or tuberous. Begonia ‘Corallina de Lucerna’ has a fibrous root system, consisting of many fine roots that tangle instead of roots consisting of larger fleshy rhizomes or tubers. Based on that assumption, this is what you need to know about caring for your plant.

Your begonia requires bright light but does not need direct sun. If you wanted to try and get it to flower you would have to increase the sun to the point where the plant is getting about 4 hours of direct sun a day. However, where you have the plant now, if it is under florescent light on a daily basis it should be getting enough full spectrum light to be able to properly photosynthesize. During the summer months you can keep the soil moist on a regular basis, or allow it to go slightly dry between watering, but in the winter you want to water less. The plant is much less active this time of year so you can let the soil go fairly dry between watering. You will want to give it a weak solution of a balanced fertilizer every two weeks during the summer months only, when the plant is getting more sunlight and growing at a faster rate. The only other thing is that begonias love humidity. If you placed a layer of small stones or pebbles in the saucer underneath the pot and let excess water accumulate there, then the water in that “buffer zone” can evaporate and provide some humidity for the plant. As long as the roots are not sitting in water for any length of time, which runs the risk of root rot, the begonia will benefit from the extra moisture in the air. Since our places can get so dry in the winter I might even put a little water solely in my saucers if the plant’s soil is still moist and does not appear to need more water. As far as the container it is in, it should be fine. You could maybe repot it to a container an inch larger in diameter, or maybe even just do a little “top dress” of fresh soil, but hold off on that until spring.

Friday, November 30, 2007

Notes from Around Town: NYBG and Winter Interest

The other day I was invited up to the New York Botanical Garden for a meeting and luncheon. I joined a number of other green organizations, land trusts, city and state departments, and representatives from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden and New York Botanical Garden to discuss the importance of community gardens, our role in their success, and what needs to be done in the future to ensure their longevity. As a 105-year-old nonprofit here in Manhattan, HSNY is an organization that provides all the same offerings as the larger botanical gardens: educational resources including classes and a library, research and statistics based on our exemplary outreach programs, horticultural phone and email support, consultation services, numerous events throughout the calendar year, horticultural services, and experienced horticultural staff who train and educate communities throughout New York City. This year we are celebrating the 10-year anniversary of both the Riker’s Island Greenhouse program and the community-based GreenBranches program, two of our exemplary outreach programs that prove that horticulture improves the quality of life for a wide range of local communities. Our GreenTeam, graduates of the Riker’s Greenhouse, have worked closely with other social service organizations and the land trusts providing horticultural services, workshops, and horticultural therapy in community gardens throughout all of the boroughs. We enjoy sharing with other green groups our experiences to help aide with the communal goal of successful, sustainable greening of our city. And it was a fabulous meeting of the minds. I can say without hesitation that I am thrilled to be a horticulturist living and working in the city during these times of necessary and beneficial change.

But, of course, I couldn't leave without getting out and taking some pictures of the trees and shrubs I love so much this time of year. Everyone else was headed to the conservatory to get a tour of the Holiday Train Show, but I snuck away and reunited with some of my old friends. This time of year some people have the nerve to say nothing is happening in the garden, and I must say that absolutely boggles my mind. It is true that many leaves have fallen and many herbaceous plants have died back already, but there is still so much interesting fruit-set and seed, bark, and forms in the landscape.
Malus ‘Red Jade’ is a weeping form of a flowering crabapple, a member of the rose family, Rosaceae. The white flowers that bloomed in spring have led to the glossy red fruit that hang off the dark, pendulous branches. This specimen is mature, spanning 15’ wide and almost as tall. I love the combination of the dark, textural bark and the red fruit, which the birds love as well. Even here in some shade the fruit-set suggests that the tree put out a decent amount of flowers.
Newer cultivars of flowering crabapples are now being bred for even greater fruit set in the fall,not to mention variations in color. Here is a young Malus ‘Sugar Tyme’ and below it, with the yellow-orange fruit, is Malus transitoria ‘Golden Raindrops’. Then there is Callicarpa japonica, or Japanese beauty berry. A deciduous shrub, beauty berry loses its simple, toothed leaves in fall, leaving at the nodes these clusters of purple fruit. The shrub, which typically reaches about 6’ tall and wide, has an upright arching habit that might not be interesting enough for some. However, the 2” clusters of unique purple berries that cover the shrub this time of year certainly make up for its rather ordinary form. Planted amidst a woody border, the contrast of colors this time of year would be sensational.
Rhus typhina is called staghorn sumac. A North American native, found from Georgia up to Quebec, staghorn sumac is a very durable shrub with its open habit and large compound leaves. This cultivar, ‘Laniciata’, has very deeply divided leaflets that almost look fern-like and have great fall color. Here all that is left is the hairy crimson fruit atop the bare branches which will remain through winter.
While we are on the topic of North American natives, here are two shots (above and below) of an Ilex opaca, or American holly. With their large, pyramidal habit that reaches taller and wider than most hollies in the northeast landscape, it is a beautiful staple for fall.

Ilex verticillata, commonly called winterberry, is yet another native Ilex for our region. As you can see this member of the holly genus is deciduous, but who needs leaves when you have the stems so covered with bright red fruit through the fall and winter. I have had the most success with this plant when placing it in full sun in an area that stays moist on a regular basis. Certainly for the best fruit-set you are going to want to provide these upright shrubs with as much sun as possible. Some references say that winterberry can tolerate dryer soils as well, but I'm still testing those hypotheses.
I have talked about redosier dogwood in the past, botanically known as Cornus sericea, and here it is in front of a stand of tall grasses. The bare red stems in fall have great character on their own, especially when combined with more natural colors and hues like these tall grasses behind them.

While we are on the topic of combinations, here are a few that caught my eye and I wanted to share them with you.
In the background is bluestar (Amsonia hubrechtii) and in front a small globe blue spruce (Picea pungens 'Glauca Globosa'). The Amsonia is past its prime, but imagine a soft, glowing yellow in contrast to the striking blue of the spruce. All over the garden the blue spruce were stunning.
Or how about the dried blossoms of a Hydrangea with a more typical green conifer far behind? All through the summer people can forget that green foliage is a color in itself, but the fall and winter is a great time for evergreens to shine.
Here a kind of pine is wedged between a large Euonymus shrub in the foreground and a huge Taxodium in the background. The rest of the year it is hidden but this time it looked so full and rich and vibrant.

Of course, in the fall you do not want to forget about viburnums. Most of us know viburnums because of their spring flowers and fragrance, but plenty of species remain interesting well into the fall. This is Viburnum setigerum, commonly called a tea viburnum. The russet fall color and clusters of hanging red fruit makes this one of the most popular viburnums for this time of year. This upright, multi-stem shrub is a slow grower, but give it time and you will end up with a specimen that stands a good 6'-8' tall and nearly as wide.
Lastly, I had to take a picture of the Choctaw crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia x indica 'Choctaw'). Those of you who know me well know how I am infatuated with these trees, and yet again I say, "well, why not!?" I've talked about the upright habit of these small-to-medium trees and their exfoliating bark. I've mentioned the late summer flower than can range from soft pink to brilliant magenta. And here I am, underneath the almost black clusters of dry fruit that sit at the outermost tips of the branches. Combined with the cinnamon bark and against the amazing blue of the fall sky, now that's a form in nature I'll appreciate all winter long.

Thursday, November 29, 2007

Plant ID: Lysimachia clethroides (A Discussion on Potential Invasives)

Gooseneck loosestrife (Lysimachia clethroides) is a member of the primula family, Primulaceae. It is native to China and Japan, and therefore is an introduced species here in the United States. It has upright stems with long, narrow foliage that are 3” or 4” in length. The plant grows about 2’ to 3’ tall and spreads by fast-growing rhizomes as well as by seed. In late summer the plant produces spires of white blossoms right above the foliage that grow in beautiful curvy and contorted forms, hence the name. Gooseneck loosestrife grows in full sun to part shade and is adaptable to a wide range of soil conditions. It is hardy in USDA zones 4-9. But beware, just because it sounds and looks like a beautiful plant does not mean you shouldn’t still do your homework.

I was first introduced to this plant when I found it growing outside of my father’s retail shop in the Hamptons years ago. Next to a formal herb garden that I planted outside the storefront window was an unkempt space and in it was growing gooseneck loosestrife. My father enjoyed the plant, its persistence, and late summer flower, so we left it in the area and let it do its thing. In fact, when my father closed the shop he liked the plant so much that he divided a piece from the mother plant and transplanted it to my parents garden at home.

If only I knew then what I know now.

After a few years my father called and explained that the loosestrife was quickly taking over my parent’s garden and asked how he might control it. We talked about the multitude of small black seed that follow the profuse spires of white flowers and I recommended deadheading the flowers before they passed maturity to prevent the seed from forming. I also taught him about the aggressive underground rhizomes and explained that he would have to remove them entirely to ensure that the plant did not come back. Lastly he asked if he could move it to the other side of the driveway, which happened to be adjacent to a portion of natural woods. I exclaimed, “No, you can't do that!” Plants that become invasive in home gardens are bad enough, but when they spread to natural woodlands then the problem can become exponentially worse practically over night. Had the gooseneck loosestrife been allowed to drop seed and spread it’s rhizomes into the woods then there would be nothing holding it back. As an introduced species with no natural predators, whether they be other plants, feeding insects, or diseases, the plant would eventually begin to overtake our important native plants, ferns, and mosses. It sounds hard to believe that one transplant could disrupt an entire ecosystem, but unfortunately I have seen it happen entirely too many times.

Burning bush (Euonymus alatus) is perhaps one of the best examples. Originally chosen and planted in American gardens because of its brilliant red fall color, burning bush is an introduced species with no natural predators. Planted in suburban lots all over the northeast the seeds eventually spread into nearby woods and began to produce multiple seedlings. Now, from southern New Jersey to northern Massachusetts natural forests and woodlands are being disrupted and native species are losing the fight against this invasive shrub. Driving in the fall you might not think anything is wrong as you see patches of the bright red shrub amidst your local woods, but a trained horticulturist will be quick to tell you otherwise. Organizations devoted to restoring natural ecosystems and habitats can no longer attempt to eradicate the problem and the plant populations that have run rampant; the best we can do now is to control the infestations as best we can. Some states have made great strides to make invasive plants illegal to buy or sell, but I am sorry to say you can still find burning bush for sale in New York State.

You can tell this is a topic I feel strongly about. Therefore you can imagine how my emotions flared when a woman called recently to ask about how she could get rid of a patch of gooseneck loosestrife in her garden in New Jersey. I explained the profuse seed production and the aggressive rhizomes and she knew the characteristics all too well. Year after year she dug up as much as she could, even resorted to Round-Up, an extremely strong chemical herbicide that should only be used as a last resort, and still she would find new growth every spring. I believe she said it is now the fifth year of her battle. I tried to find feeding insects that she might introduce to her garden that would target the gooseneck loosestrife, but to no avail. There are more heavy duty herbicides on the market, but in a condensed residential neighborhood I could not ethically recommend introducing them for fear that if wrongly applied they might leach into the ground water. After much research and many conversations it was frustrating that the best piece of advice I could give her was to not lose hope, to keep up the fight, and to reaffirm that she was doing everything right.

So, what lessons can we learn from these overwhelming tales? While conservation and native plant advocates fight for stricter policies regarding the growing and sale of invasives, (insert applause here), it is our duty to be the best educated consumers we can be. Gooseneck loosestrife, to the best of my knowledge, is still not considered invasive. I even found a few websites that listed it as an “ideal garden plant”. Obviously I beg to differ. The next time you see a plant at the nursery that you are new to, consider doing a little research before taking one home and planting it in your garden. If it is an introduced species from another country, even if it has been introduced for centuries, see if you can find out if it has any tendencies towards becoming invasive. In this regard a little internet or book research can be invaluable for the long run. Better yet, see if there is a native alternative that might work just as well in your landscape plan.