Monday, July 7, 2008

Spittlebugs in Woodstock, NY

Question:
Hi, we planted five variegated dogwoods on our property in Ulster County last fall and after bursting to life in the Spring they now all have a white sap-like substance oozing from the leaf stems (please see attached photo) at several points.

Would you know what the problem is and how to treat it?. Over time, the leaves die and the problem moves to another part of the plant.

Answer in the form of a question:
Thanks for writing. I can’t make it out quite so easily, so let me ask you a question:
The sap-like substance, is it kind of foamy? Meaning, not very thick and viscous, but more like white foam or froth?

If so I am guessing it might spittle bugs. But let me know a little more and we will try and diagnose more concretely.

Answer to my question:
Yes it is more foamy than viscous. If you can identify we would be really grateful. The plants are at a house in Woodstock. They are the only plants affected like this.

My long-winded answer:
Thanks for the confirmation. I think it is pretty safe to say that what you have attacking your Cornus is a pest called a spittlebug. There are a number of different species of spittlebug but there is one that feeds specifically on dogwood, aptly named a dogwood spittlebug. This might also explain why they are not affecting other perennials or shrubs in the same area. Without seeing the pest myself, I must admit I am guessing, but a confident guess regardless.

Let me first give you some information about their life cycle. Inside the foamy mass of “spittle” there are spittlebug nymphs using their piercing/sucking mouthparts to feed on the delicate new growth of your shrubs. The spittle helps protect them and keep the area moist right around them so that they do not dry out. The nymphs are likely ¼” to ½” long and oval-shaped, and either yellow or yellow-green in color. (there can be some slight variation between species). If you inspect further I am guessing you will find them feeding mostly on the undersides of the new leaves where they are likely to be, again, cool and protected. Nymphs morph into adults with a similar appearance who will feed through the rest of summer and then lay white to beige eggs in rows in the leaf litter this fall.

I am glad that you have noticed them now because this is a good time to treat them. As with most pest issues, if you can find the time during the pest’s life cycle when they are in their most vulnerable form, and then attack them, you have the best chance for successful control. Even though the masses of spittle are pretty gross and overwhelming, you can rest assured that these pests are not likely to kill your Cornus shrubs. Enough damage can deform and stunt new growth, so you might have to do a little pruning late summer or early fall, but at least you don’t have to begin redesigning your garden.

As a first plan of attack I would treat your shrubs with an insecticidal soap. I should say that some believe that blasting the spittle masses with your garden hose on a strong stream is enough to disrupt, destroy and control them. However, if you are dealing with such an infestation then I am going to say let's go ahead and jump to the next step. Available at your local garden center or nursery, insecticidal soap is designed to coat and dry out and/or suffocate small garden pests that feed using their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Sold as a ready-to-use spray, coat the affected areas of your shrubs by spraying to the point of runoff. Remember that the nymphs are most likely hiding in the most protected spots, so be sure to spray the undersides of the affected leaves and stems as well. You will probably have to repeat treatment for a few weeks until you see the situation improve. Of course, read and follow the instructions on the label. Even though tedious, any physical removal of the pests and protective spittle you can do is going to be a help. If the nymphs are exposed to the hot summer sun and stressed out they should not be able to feed with the same ferocity. As a precautionary step for next year, you might choose to rake up and garbage bag the leaf litter this fall instead of leaving it or composting it. Hopefully that way any eggs that adults were able to lay will be removed before they hatch next spring.

If the combination of insecticidal soap and physical removal does not work, let me know and we can try and figure out the next serious step. I think I covered all the bases for now, but if anything is unclear, just let me know. Good luck.

A few days later, the dialog continued...
I will get the spray and saturate the plants to the point of run off this weekend and follow up with further applications. I assume "insecticidal soap" is a readily understood generic term.
One question for now, if I bag the leaves in the fall and hopefully remove any eggs, what are the odds of a new infestation in future years? Is it likely I will have to do this every year or spray early in the spring to prevent it?

And to that I replied:
Insecticidal soap should be a generic enough term and pretty easy to find at a garden center or large retailer. The most common brand name you will find is a company called Safer, so many refer to it simply as Safer Soap. Their products are excellent. I think there is also an organic one made by a company called Concern which we have used in school gardens. Either will work just fine.

There is a chance they might come back next year even though I think you have a good chance of getting the situation under control. Removing the leaf litter will be a helpful practice and then you can lay down some fresh compost or mulch in its place to protect the roots through winter. I’d hold on to the rest of the insecticidal soap as you may find a small population of them next year. But now knowing what you do, you will treat the shrubs again at the first sign of the spittle, and that should wipe out the remaining nymphs. Hopefully by two years the problem will be behind you.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Ant Infestation!

Question:
Here's a weird problem: for the first time in the three years we lived in our 6th floor apartment we have an infestation of little black ants. Worse yet, they seem to have taken over several potted plants and turned them into "ant hills" by colonizing through the bottom of the pots.
Do you have any suggestions about how to clear them out? I will appreciate any guidance you can offer, as I know the Horticultural Society has been able to help us in the past about other matters.

Answer:
Nice to hear from you. Honestly, that ant situation is a new thing to me. I must admit, though, that I do not know as much about ants as I do other garden pests. This is what I do know:

Ants themselves do not typically do damage to or kill plants. (If they are doing damage to the roots via their tunneling, that might be another story). If ants are present, it is typically because they have found a source of honeydew to feed on. Aphids and other garden pests feed on the leaf tissue and their excrement, technically called frass, is a sweet, sticky substance called honeydew. Large quantities of honeydew on leaves can lead to a dark fungal coating called sooty mold, and can also invite ants to feed.

I would recommend inspecting your plants and seeing if you see any other signs of insects. Be sure to look on the undersides of the leaves and at the nodes, the junctions where stems and leaves meet, as these are safe places for pests to hide and feed. If you find other culprits, (aphids, mealy bugs, etc.), treat your plants with an insecticidal soap, which you should be able to find in the Flower District or at a local garden center. The insecticidal soap will not deter the ants directly, but hopefully it will wipe out any food sources that might be present and they won't be so inclined to stick around. As far as a treatment for the ants themselves, I am sorry to say I do not have a quick answer right now. We have some text here in the Library so I will review that and see what we come up with. Given this day and age I'd probably do some Google searches too and see what others recommend.

Hale Damage and the Topic of Senescence

Question:
We recently had two hale storms on grand island. My hostas were ripped to shreds and I am in the process of cutting them back but was wondering if that might be harmful to next years growth. Not sure if they would be like daffodils and tulips and need the leaves to stay until they yellow. Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Answer:
Thanks for writing. Your assumption is right on target. In the world of horticulture there is a word that gets thrown around called “senescing” or “senescence”. When perennial herbaceous plants, like your hosta, begin to naturally yellow and die back in the fall we call that senescing. (Funny enough the verb “to senesce” can be difficult to find in some dictionaries, especially as it relates to horticulture and biology). And even though plants will senesce at different times of the year, the general premise holds true across the boards. Typically by that point the plant has achieved its fundamental biological goal of flowering or producing cones or producing spores in the hopes of reproducing and staying alive as a species. It has then maintained foliage to continue to photosynthesize and store nutrient and carbohydrate reserves for next year. By the time a plant yellows it has built up enough to leaf out and/or flower next spring and can thus go dormant for the rest of the off season. For this reason, most garden plants, from spring bulbs to late flowering herbaceous species, will be happiest and healthiest if allowed to keep their foliage until it naturally yellows and dies back.

As far as your dilemma I completely understand. Two years ago I was working at a public garden and a hale storm destroyed the majority of the large leaf plants in the woodland garden and we didn’t quite know what to do. I suppose what I would recommend is to leave what leaves you can. Even if the plants look a little lop-sided or sad, it will be best if they can utilize what leaf tissue is left to build up energy reserves before the fall. However, if they are really trashed then you have to do what you have to do, even though not ideal. You will sacrifice this years flower and the plants might get a slower or later start next year, but luckily hosta are some tough plants, so I can’t imagine you will actually lose any. Perhaps the plants will push out a new flush of growth this year, but I don’t want to get your hopes up in case that does not happen.

Pinus mugo in Containers?

Question:
I am a Landscape Design student @ the NYBG and we need to design a roof garden.
I would like to put PINUS mugo ( good size) in tall planters. The building is 5 stories high in Brooklyn. Do you have comments on the resistance of that species in container or other idea beside Buxus? Physocarpus? Thank you

Answer:
For that situation Pinus mugo should be fine, as long as it will get full sun, have decent drainage, and receive regular irrigation. I have certainly seen and used it in containers, and even though it can get large and wide over time the slower growth habit, compared to other pines, I find to be an attractive characteristic. The only concern I have is installing them at a "good size". If you really want to make sure that they take well I would not install very mature ones, but would go with younger specimens at first. As with other plants, especially in a challenging situation like a rooftop garden, I plant as young as I can get away with to make sure they have the best chance to acclimate quickly asnd successfully. Once you start bringing in mature pieces they can be so used to the light, temperature, and irrigation they were getting before that the new situation can throw them into some shock. Not to mention if you spend the money on mature plants and then deal with getting them to the space for them to then go into quick decline, no one will be happy, neither you or your client.

I would also recommend coming to the HSNY Library if you are still in the planning stages. A horticultural library with over 10,000 volumes open to the public I am sure we have some references that will be of assistance. The Library is open to the public from Monday to Friday, 10-6pm, and Katherine Powis, the full time librarian, is here Monday through Thursday.