Showing posts with label soil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label soil. Show all posts

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Soil Testing

Is it really important to test your soil? I hear this question often.
A soil test will help you to determine the 'plant available' nutrients in your soil, the soil pH, and the toxicity levels (if any) in your soil.
Soil testing is the process by which elements are chemically removed from the soil and measured for their 'plant available' content within that sample. These nutrients are phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sodium, sulfur, manganese, copper and zinc, their quantity in the sample determines what kind and how much fertilizer is recommended.

Testing your soil will also help you to measure the soil pH, which will determine whether your soil is alkaline or acidic. This is important to your plants because at various soil pH levels, nutrients become more or less 'available'.

Finally, soil testing can help you determine whether youe soil is contaminated or contains potentially toxic materials. This is essential if your are going to plant food crops in your garden, since plants will absorb these toxins that you will eventually ingest.

Brooklyn College has an affordable soil testing service which is offered as part of the College's commitment to community. Listed below are the tests available from Brooklyn College, what they measure and their cost.

Toxic Metals - $20
Samples are analyzed for 5 toxic metals:
Lead (Pb)
Chromium (Cr)
Arsenic (As)
Cadmium (Cd)
Mercury (Hg)

Standard Nutrients - $12
Samples are analyzed for major and micro nutrients including:
Calcium (Ca)
Magnesium (Mg)
Phosphorus (P)
Potassium (K)
Manganese (Mn)
Copper (Cu)
Zinc (Zn)
Iron (Fe)

Soil pH - $5

Soluble Salts - $5

Organic Matter Content - $8

Soil Texture Analysis - $12

Visit the Brooklyn College website: http://www.brooklyn.cuny.edu/pub/departments/esac/1535.htm

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Houseplants in Nebraska

Question:
I live in Nebraska and have house plants. Lately, after watering them we can smell mold coming from the pots. Is there something I can do about it, I don't want to throw them away.

Answer:
If the soil in your houseplants containers is extremely stinky then you definitely want to take some action to right the situation since good potting soil and/or compost is usually quite odorless. Let me suggest a few things to try and hopefully you will not have to get rid of any of your houseplants.

A good thing to know right off the bat is that most houseplants require significantly less water in winter. Even though our homes are kept warm through the winter, the sunlight during the day is significantly less and our houseplants are simply not as active as they are during the summer months. Many houseplants we consider evergreen still go through a dormancy period in winter. With limited sunlight the plants are still photosynthesizing, converting sunlight into energy in the form of carbohydrates, and growing, but at a much slower rate. As a result, your plants water needs are not as great as they are during the summer when the plants are photosynthesizing and growing at a much faster rate. In winter I still try and water with some regularity but I definitely apply much less water. Each houseplant has different needs, but in general I am always advising people to water slightly less but with greater frequency instead of drowning your plants and waiting until they are bone dry to water them again. Even some plants, like succulents for example, I might water only once a month in the winter, compared to once or twice a week during the summer. Excess water that is applied to the soil and not taken up by the plant then sits and runs the risk of promoting rot of roots and soil in your containers. So, first of all, if you don’t already, consider watering with less volume in winter.

With that being said, let’s address your plants more specifically. Hopefully the plants are not that large because what I would recommend next is to carefully pull the plants from their containers and inspect the soil, roots, and containers. Create a work space for yourself because you may very well make a mess, and if possible do this during a cloudy day or at night so the roots do not run the risk of being burned by direct sunlight. What you want to find is soil that is not overly compacted or claylike. When slightly moist, a good potting soil you should be able to ball up in your hand and when you release it, it should fall apart pretty easily. What you do not want is soil that has broken down so much that it is either like clay or like pulverized dust. Next look at your roots. Healthy roots are usually white or light in color and firm, rotting roots are dark or black, squishy to the touch, and probably not very good smelling. If you have root rot take a sharp pair of pruners or scissors and get the rotten roots out of there; they’re of no help to the plant. Lastly, make sure your containers have adequate drainage holes in the bottom. All houseplants require containers with drainage holes, even if they are considered water loving plants.

I’m hoping that all you really have to do to right the situation is repot some of your houseplants. Spend the extra couple bucks on a name brand potting soil (Schultz, Miracle Gro, etc) because the soil structure will be better than generic bags of soil that inevitably seem to frustrate me. If your containers do not have drainage, switch them to containers that do. If you have succulents or plants that require maximum drainage, consider a layer of small stones or pebbles in the bottoms of your containers to create an additional buffer for excess water not used by the plant. Usually you want to repot in spring, but it sounds like the plants will benefit from being checked out as soon as you can find the time. Let me know how it goes and if you need further help. Good luck!

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Blossom End Rot Affecting My Tomatoes

(image from the Ohio State University Extension website)

Question:
I have been growing a small crop of tomatoes for the last number of years, and every year I have had great success and fruit production. I grow my tomatoes in the same spot every year and I know it is good to rotate them, but unfortunately my small garden does not allow me that freedom. This year I noticed a new problem and I am not sure what to do about it. As the tomatoes begin to turn red the bottom of the fruit begins to turn black and soft. I have done some research and I think the problem is called Blossom End Rot. Can you help me confirm the problem and how best to fix it?

Answer:
I am really glad you called with this question because the exact same happened to me in a small garden I planted last year. The tomatoes would develop these decaying spots that were brown or black, usually at the base, or “blossom end”, of the fruit. Even though Blossom End Rot sounds like a disease, it is actually more of a cultural condition taking place between the plant and the soil it is grown in.

Sure enough, your condition is Blossom End Rot, and the reason for it is a lack of calcium in the soil. Calcium is important in plants because it facilitates water uptake and strong cell development and division. Calcium deficiencies in your tomato plants can be because it is simply lacking in the soil, but your watering schedule can have an affect as well. Tomatoes require their roots to be evenly moist through the growing season and when very wet soil is followed by very dry conditions the calcium distribution to the plant can be compromised. This year especially our rainstorms have dropped so much water in such a short time, followed by long dry spells in between, and our plants have suffered from the irregular watering. Therefore, make sure your tomatoes are well watered during the dry spells. In addition, do not be afraid to mulch your plants because that helps regulate soil temperature and moisture levels throughout the growing season.

To fix this problem I have yet to discover a “quick solution”. What I can tell you is that there are a number of long term amendments you can make to your soil so that your tomatoes next year come back with the same fervor and success you are used to. If you do not add it already, compost should be on the top of your list. Not only does compost increase water permeability and drainage, add organics and micronutrients to the soil, and improve soil structure, but it also helps regulate soil pH. Secondly, you need to add calcium back into the soil. Ground limestone can be applied once in the fall and it will slowly release calcium into the soil to help you prepare for next year’s planting. Even though they may sound like applicable products for the task, a few reference books I used here in the library said to stay away from quick lime and hydrated lime. If you cannot find limestone, then adding Gypsum to the soil will also help increase the calcium levels in the soil. If you are determined to take a much more “au natural” approach, I can tell you what we used to do in my mothers garden growing up on Long Island. Because the soil is naturally so acidic, we would get oyster and clam shells from the local seafood shop, pulverize them, and add the dust to the soil along with compost in the fall. As I say, I am sorry none of these are such quick fixes, but at least now you have a little more knowledge of soil science and know how to prepare your soil for your tomato crop next year.

Monday, April 2, 2007

Where to get a soil test?

This is an excellent question that someone called me with this morning:
I live in New York City and I want to have my soil tested. Can you tell me where I have to go or what I have to do?

Answer:
Soil tests are a wonderful thing. Whether a new piece of property or one you have been gardening in for years, soil tests are a relatively quick and easy way to make sure that your soil has the correct pH and nutrients available for the kinds of plant material you are trying to grow.

To get your soil tested, contact the Cornell University science extension in Ithica, NY. Their phone number is (607) 255-4540. A standard soil test usually starts around $15 plus shipping. Over the phone they can tell you how to collect and send a sample in for analysis, and where to send it to. Another option, an one I have chosen a number of times, is to give them your credit card information and have them send you a complete kit that guides you through the soil sample process. They send you all the supplies you need, in a week or less, and all you have to do is send back the kit for their analysis. I have found over years of dealing with various Cornell University offices and extensions that they are an extremely nice and helpful group of people. In fact, everyone should know how easy and helpful it is to have your soil tested.

Now is the perfect time - consider it.