Showing posts with label houseplants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label houseplants. Show all posts

Monday, August 25, 2008

Staghorn Ferns as Houseplants in NYC

The curled, more rigid feel to the leaves of this staghorn fern in the office implies that it is not in as humid an environment as it would like, but regular misting and watering are certainly helping to keep it going.

Question(s):
i'm a big fan of your blog. i'm a patio/indoor gardener and have recently become rather obsessed with ferns - my boyfriend (who's a landscaper and gardener as well) gave me a staghorn fern as a gift. i have been googling the fern and have read some contrasting advice (it loves bright light, it should be in a shady spot; don't over water and even allow it to slightly wilt so you know you aren't OR always keep the soil evenly damp). Since it's a gift i really want to keep it alive - it's also such a beautiful plant that i would hate to be responsible for killing it.

SO. here's the deal - the fern is rather large and it came in a six inch plastic hanging pot. i have read that i should transplant it into a hanging wire basket lined with sphagnum moss and hang the plant sideways and growth will come out of all sides. would you agree with that? should i line it with the moss and then add peat and then the fern? (also something i read).

in terms light -- my gut instinct with all ferns is to give them part shade. none of my windows get direct bright light but rather i have three big windows with varying levels: bright indirect, medium indirect and low indirect - it is currently in the medium indirect. my patio gets direct light and part of it is always in the shade. would you recommend i keep the fern outside until fall - before any danger of frost?

watering -- always damp? also: would you recommend misting the plant since it like humidity? or is misting pointless?

i think that's about it. please let me know if you have any questions and i really, really appreciate your help with this.

Answer(s):
A staghorn fern (Platycerium bifurcatum) is without question a beautiful and unusual plant, and I personally think they are fabulous. However, I am very glad that you both have plenty of plant growing experience because you will need it as they are not necessarily the easiest houseplant out there. In fact, some books outright say these plants are not suitable for the home, but I think you can prove them wrong. Let me share with you what I know from my experience with them, both in greenhouses and in the home, as well as refer to some great houseplant books we have here in the HSNY Library. Your fern will be a little particular, but with the right care I think you should be able to keep it going for plenty of years to come.

Your fern will produce two types of leaves as it grows. The sterile fronds will be produced at the base of the plant and mature from green to brown. In its natural environment these fronds would adhere themselves to the larger tree branch the fern would be living on, eventually pulling nutrients from the organic matter that would collect between the two organisms. Transplanting it into a wire or wooden (orchid) basket with sphagnum moss is what I would do. Because it is a naturally epiphytic plant the moss should hold enough moisture at the base of the plant between when you water. I would transplant the fern oriented as you want it because the sterile fronds will naturally grown down and around the base of the plant (and the sphagnum moss) as the fertile fronds will continue to grow upright and out in search of light and humidity. My gut instinct is that the extra step of incorporating the peat moss is not necessary, but if it is in a peat-heavy mix now then that might help the transition to be as smooth as possible. I actually bought one mostly in peat moss one time and transplanted it into sphagnum moss soon after getting it. It definitely went through a little shock and stress (granted it was also adapting to my light and humidity) but it survived and I think was happier in the long run being in the sphagnum. I wonder if you might want to keep it in the plastic for a bit longer to make sure it is acclimated to the light and humidity of your place before transplanting, but that is probably me being too conservative.

Light is one of those issues where we have to remember that we live in the city with light levels that are uniquely different than if we were in the country. I would think it would be happiest in as sunny a spot as you can get it. Especially if you received it as a pretty mature plant, I’m guessing it was getting a lot of light in the greenhouse where it was raised. One of my favorite references recommends bright light with some direct sun and that sounds pretty right on to me. When I helped care for staghorn ferns up at NYBG when I was a student they were kept in a house that got a flood of bright, barely diffused light, and they loved it. Here in my office I have one that actually gets a good shot of direct morning sun and I was fearing it might be too much, but the plant is holding up well. If we were in the country I would say otherwise, that some shade would be good, but here we are often searching to find sunlight for our plants before we are searching to find them shade. As far as the debate between inside versus outside, I would try and figure out which area will have higher humidity and stick it there. If you put it outside do not let the nighttime temperature get much below 65 before pulling it inside. It sounds to me like the medium indirect or bright indirect perches inside would be suitable.

Once you have your fern situated in the sphagnum moss I think you should only have to water it about once a week, the same routine as you might water orchids. In addition, once a month or so I would give it a real good drench, even submerge the base of the plant in water for a few minutes, and then let it drain. This can also be a good time to incorporate a light fertilizing, which should be done once a month during the summer months but not so much in the darker seasons. Watering from the base will be a good practice because too much water at the base of the fertile fronds can lead them to get too waterlogged and fall off, and you definitely do not want to lose leaves as staghorn ferns are slow growers. If the plant dries out a little bit between watering that is fine.

I am glad you brought up misting and humidity because this is really the most important thing when it comes to keeping a staghorn fern alive in the home. They require a lot of regular humidity, and drying out too much can be the ultimate downfall of the plant (trust me – I know!). In a greenhouse setting staghorn ferns do great because they get the 60% humidity (or higher) all the time which is ideal. At home I keep mine in the bathroom, where the light and humidity are ample, but even then I mist it occasionally, especially if we have been away for a few days. Here in our office I am always misting the staghorn fern and it seems like I can never do that enough. Again, I try to mist regularly but prevent lots of water from collecting at the base of the fertile fronds. What can I say, I know the plant is a little bit drier than it would prefer, but it is holding on and looking good.

The only other thing that comes to mind is the waxy coating on the surface of the fertile green leaves. That waxy coating helps the plant to retain more moisture in its leaves so do not attempt as some do to clean the leaves and remove it. If some gets wiped off when you transplant that is not the end of the world by any means. It sounds like you know plant care enough not to do that, but worth the quick mention regardless.

I guess the long and the short of it is that you simply can’t forget or neglect a staghorn fern as a houseplant. But if I can keep one alive in a dry office setting then I am sure yours will be just fine once you get it more situated and on a regular regiment. Good luck and let me know how it works out for you.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Dracaena Propagation Update from Seattle

So, for those of you that are regular readers of the HSNY blog, you may remember a story from February of a woman dealing with her Dracaena about to poke a hole in the cieling of her apartment out in Seattle, WA. If you need a refresher, here is a link to the original piece.


This week I received a fabulous update from Angela that really made my day. Sometimes I get nervous when I am advising people thousands of miles away, so to hear that her propagation efforts were a success I was so thrilled. Here is the update from the west coast as well as my answer to a new question that came up. Enjoy.


Hi Alex,
I just wanted to thank you again for your help earlier this year. I wrote to you in February asking about my Janet Craig. Here is an update:
At first I tried air layering, but that only lasted about a week, because the top got too heavy and snapped off where I had made the incision. I was too busy to deal with it, so I took the top and stuck it in a vase of water for about two weeks. Finally, I cut the top into two separate pieces and planted both in peat moss like you said. Now, about 6? weeks later, there are two little baby plants with great roots (see photos), and there is also new growth on the bottom plant as well.
Awesome! Now I have a Janet Craig family. Just one question, when can you transfer the plant to regular soil? They seem to like the peat moss - can I leave them in that?

Image 1005 shows the papa plant...
...and image 1010 shows where the papa broke off and where there is new growth.

To the update I replied:

All the cuttings look great and you are right, you have a good amount of roots there. So glad my advising worked - phew! To answer your question I think this would be a fine time to repot them into a mix of regular potting soil, perhaps amended with a little extra peat moss. The reason you used peat moss was to anchor them and provide water to the cuttings to get them to root without tons of extra organic matter that the cutting would not have been quite ready for. Now that you have good roots, the plants can begin to be situated in pots with increased organic matter and that will provide them with the nutrients and water retention they need going forward. If you were to keep them in just peat moss you would probably find that they would become weak over time. When my cutting here in the office established roots much like the ones you have I repotted it in regular soil and it is doing just fine now.

Thursday, May 8, 2008

Pachypodium Care (con't)

(A photograph of a cactus emailed to me which I believe belongs to the genus Pachypodium)

The precursor to this blog entry is a post from last August which I made a link to here.

Questions:
Returning to our exchange of e-mails last year, here is an update on my columnar whatsit.
It remained dormant and leafless all during the winter. A month or so ago it began putting out leaves from all columns and I gave it one dose of Miracle Grow in its every-three-weeks watering.
It now has leaves from the top of each column and seems to be putting out more.
BUT once they come out at the top of the tallest (about 42" tall) they shrivel in curls, although others seem to be pushing out behind them.
What might be happening and what can I do?
Is the stalk simply too tall? Can the water not get up that high?
Are there bugs on that stalk and not on the others (I can't see any and am reluctant to spray it since the dosing last year seemed not to do anything good.)
Could it use more feeding?
Should I just forget about it and admire the rest?

Answers (for now):
As I said in a previous email I believe that your columnar whatsit is in the genus Pachypodium. In short, I know of no other cactus (at this point in my career) that produced those tufts of almost tropical looking foliage atop their spiky stems.

I've revisited a few references here in the library and these are my thoughts regarding your questions:
The stem is not too tall for water to be able to easily travel. Cacti can grow to well over 20' in their natural habitats and do just fine so we can rule that out. Plants vascular systems can allow water to be transported up and down hundred of feet in fact. I still refer to an article I read years ago on giant redwoods of the west coast where they talked about how, at 300 feet above the soil surface, water transport became significantly more difficult, often leading to the tips of these giants being sheared off by coastal storms.

That being said, one concern might be if the tallest stem is being hit with any kind of dry air. Is there a heater or fan that blows on the tallest stem at all? Here in the office I try and keep plants as moist as possible but sometimes if they are in the direct path of a ventilation or heating system that can dry plants out very badly regardless of my efforts. Even though it sounds kind of crazy, I suppose you could mist the tallest leaves and see if they continue to be deformed. Cactus often thrive in dry climates, hence "sounds kind of crazy", but our apartments can get so dry this time of year before we open them up to the summer humidity outside.

Since the issue is isolated, I might guess that it is an insect issue. There are plenty of mites that are not easily visible to the naked eye, but I do not know of any that target cacti, nor do the references suggest any in particular. Red mites and spider mites have been found to attack some cacti, but those two you can usually see. I would probably spray the top, deformed leaves with an insecticidal soap just to be safe. Isolate the plant before spraying if you are worried about spraying any other plants or furniture in the same area. If you have an outside space where you can situate it, perhaps the fresh air will help it out. Of course, I'd avoid leaving it out during any major rain, like we might get tomorrow.

I certainly wouldn't fertilize it any more than you already are.

Hope this adds at least a little new food for thought. Chat again soon.

Thursday, May 1, 2008

The Most Reliable Low Light Houseplants

(Dracaena marginata in a northern exposure with lots of bright, reflected light)

Question:
Can you please tell me what houseplants would do well in a Northern exposure with low light?

Answer:
With limited or low light there are not many houseplants with showy flowers that would do well, but there are plenty of large leaf foliage plants that should be able to acclimate to your situation and perform well for you. Here is a list of plants that I have grown in low light conditions and/or northern exposures:

Aglaonema sp. Chinese evergreen
Calathea sp. peacock plant
Dieffenbachia maculata dumb cane
Dracaena fragrans corn plant
Dracaena marginata dragon tree
Epipremnum aureum pothos, devil’s ivy
Howea belmoreana sentry palm
Spathiphyllum wallisii peace lily

Aglaonema, Calathea, and Dieffenbachia all have interesting texture and color in their foliage. The foliage of Aglaonema is usually green and silver. Calathea often have combinations of green, yellow, and maroon in their leaves. Dieffenbachia leaves are mostly yellow with green edges. Dracaena will grow tall and upright, but they are very tolerant of low light as well as dry apartment conditions. Pothos is often sold as a hanging plant and does very well situated in a window. Sentry palms can be hard to find and many might try and sell you a kentia palm instead, thinking that they are one and the same, but I would not suggest a kentia as they are typically pricy and require more light. Lastly, the peace lily is one of the best houseplants for its ability to help purify the air in your apartment, and they can hold up well in low light, but do not expect a prolific flower if the light is limited.

I hope this helps. Let me know if we can help you further.